Dive Watch Releases / Articles


Rolex DEEPSEA D-BLUE Ref. 98220

Rolex have tweaked the DEEPSEA D-BLUE by equipping it with a cutting-edge new caliber as well as a wider bracelet.

This is the NEW Rolex DEEPSEA D-Blue, powered by a Cal. 3235 that incorporates Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement and offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

It is the first Deepsea to be equipped by this movement.

Not only does this new DS D-Blue get a new Cal. 3235 but its 44mm Oystersteel case boasts redesigned lugs and sides in order to accommodate its new wider Osyter bracelet.

The Deepsea’s Glidelock extension system and the Fliplock extension link have also been adapted accordingly.

I think the burning question, though is - is this upgrade exclusively for the D-Blue version or could we see the regular black DS getting the same changes?

I know that quite a few folks felt the current the bracelet wasn't quite substantial enough and thus not befitting the DS, but I always felt it helped to accentuate its chunky 3900m case?

What do you think? Do you approve, is the DS better for these changes or do you favor the original?

Rolex GMT–MASTER II Cal. 3285

The GMT Master II gets three new looks and a brand new high-performance caliber!

Widely considered as one of the major releases of this year’s Baselworld, does the new Rolex GMT-Master II show sibling brand, Tudor how to do a GMT diver properly?

Of course there’s room for both but in fairness this is in different league anyway. 

We’ve already seen that Rolex were producing high-tech Cerachrom bezel inlays in dual-colors such as on their highly emulated (think Steinhart, Deep Blue, Davosa etc.) GMT Master II Ref. 116710BLNR with its blue and black 24hr scale,

but this year it’s their iconic red and blue AKA Pepsi bezel that is making all the fuss. When I think of a GMT diver,

I kinda’ always picture a Rolex GMT with its classic red and blue bezel – my Dad had a Tissot with a Pepsi bezel when I was a young lad,

so for me it makes total sense that folks are gonna’ get excited over this year’s Ref. 126710BLRO.

But it isn’t just about that emblematic colored bezel which incidentally looks even sexier imo in luxurious 18k Everose Gold with a black and brown Cerachrom inlay AKA Root beer – totally baller,

but more importantly that new heart beating inside, the Rolex caliber 3285 that now equips the GMT Master II.

This movement is characterized by its exceptional performance, particularly in terms of its precision, and delivers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

The 2018 Rolex GMT Master II comes in three flavors: Oystersteel with an Oystersteel Jubilee bracelet or two-tone Rolesor Steel and 18K Everose Gold.

Additionally there is a third version made entirely from 18K Everose Gold with an 18K Everose Gold bracelet.

Thoughts? I really like these, but when it comes to expensive watches, I tend to play it safe so I’m not likely to ever buy a Pepsi bezel from Rolex from fear of tiring of it over time, but if I was playa’ I’d definitely get myself the Rolesor two-tone version – so nice!

TUDOR Black Bay FIFTY-EIGHT [smaller 'n' cooler]

TUDOR has just one more Black Bay up its sleeve for Baselworld 2018 – named after the historic year in which the first Black Bay came into existence, the new BB Fifty-Eight might be the best looking Black Bay yet, but how does it measure up?

That’s a good question because the Fifty-Eight is the new baby of the BB family in more ways than one – firstly it has a modestly sized 39mm diameter whereas its bigger brothers come in at 41mm.

Then there’s its movement, because of its smaller case, it houses a smaller (mid-sized) Tudor COSC-certified manufacture MT5402 caliber, and finally of the new BB releases it is also (only just) the cheapest model at 3100CHF on its NATO or 3400 on its steel bracelet.

Speaking of NATO straps, the black one that it can come with the gold pin-stripe running down its center (à la 70s JPS livery) is absolutely killer. Unfortunately even it could be bought separately;

I don’t think it would be able to fit other models such as the S&G which is shame because it would look bloody stunning on any of the BBs that had any gold dial or case elements. :(

BTW if you were looking for a more authentic sized BB this would be the one to own, as its dimensions are closest to the original.

As mentioned, the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch, also waterproof to 200 meters was born. The reference 7924, was affectionately known as the Big Crown.

So we know that the BB Fifty-Eight is proportioned to suit a slimmer wrist, the fairer sex or anyone who prefers a more compact wristwatch, but –

it isn’t just about size, finishing touches in gold have been applied to the hour markers, hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel while the winding crown tube is in traditional satin-brushed steel – should’ve been gold imho.

Thoughts? Is his is just another Black Bay as in Tudo's runaway cash cow? Are we getting tired of all these iterations already or do you want Tudor to keep em' coming? I like it (for my missus. How 'bout you?



Quench your thirst for a vintage-style GMT diver with this new Black Bay Pepsi from Tudor!

Equipped with a new caliber MT5652 manufacture movement powering a red snow-flake GMT hand and –

a classic red and blue 24Hr bezel and you have yourself the new Tudor Black Bay GMT, the newest heritage diver on the block. Well this and the new FIFTY-EIGHT – we’ll get to that next. ;)

Distinguished by its deep blue and burgundy timing-bezel the Black Bay has never looked so? Purposeful, it has actually looked better on several occasions. The colors BTW were lifted directly from another BB only with a matte finish.

The BB GMT is available with a choice of three different strap / bracelet options that include an old-school riveted Stainless steel tapered bracelet, an aged leather band and a black NATO with a red pinstripe running down its middle.

The bracelet option will set you back 3700CHF while either of the other strap options cost 3400CHF.

I fully appreciate the aesthetic of these BB divers but, surely it’s about time we put anodized aluminum bezel inlays in the past where they belong. Just my two cents worth.

Thoughts? Actually the Black Bay is growing on me – I had found it a little yawn-worthy but I guess as I’m maturing (there’s a worry), the slightly sober models are becoming more and more appealing.

I do think it was a missed opportunity not putting either red or blue on the crown sleeve. A Pepsi NATA would have been pretty cool too but perhaps too pimped out?

TUDOR Black Bay S&G

TUDOR’s, hugely successful heritage diver’s watch, the Black Bay is now available in a new S&G variant comprised of Yellow Gold and Stainless steel.

Actually we’ve seen it BEFORE as worn by David Beckham himself, but not with its new champagne gold dial.

The Black Bay S&G is powered by Tudor’s in-house, Manufacture Caliber MT5612, and for the first time the Black Bay S&G model also introduces a date function to the Black Bay family.

I didn’t really give this a lot of thought before. Like me, a few of you might feel that the addition of a big white date window kinda’ ruins the look of the watch, but ballers need to know what the correct date is, right?

This special model actually celebrates 60 years of TUDOR dive watches and is available in a couple or more variants that include; a champagne (gold) dial with an S&G bracelet priced 4750CHF and a black dial on a distressed leather band priced 3600CHF.

Unfortunately you can’t get the black NATO with the gold pin-stripe running through its middle (which incidentally looks ridiculously cool) that comes with the new Black Bay FIFTY-EIGHT.

The Black Bay S&G is enhanced with some little bits of bling here and there: a unidirectional diver’s bezel in Yellow Gold with a 60-minute graduated matte black anodized aluminum inlay and a gold dive-time scale.

BTW, why isn't Tudor using ceramic on these models? Is that going to come later or is it exclusive to sibling brand, Rolex?

And a Yellow Gold screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black, with black anodized aluminum winding crown tube.

And of course the bracelet of the Black Bay S&G which is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s.

Two further looks are available: a brown aged leather strap and folding clasp or brown fabric strap made using a traditional Jacquard technique.

Thoughts? Is this something you'd wear. Two-tone diver's are really popular at the moment. Omega, Breitling, Rolex and Tudor all have nice offerings in this department, but which one would you get?

SEIKO Prospex Scuba 300M GREEN Ref. SLA019J1

Here’s yet another GREEN release from Seiko Prospex; this time it’s a US reference with possibly a nicer, darker shade of green and some special details such as its gold seconds hand and yellow / gold WR text.

Ref. SLA019J1 is powered by a Seiko automatic mechanical 8L35 caliber. It has a water-resistance of 300 meters and is suitable for SAT-diving.

It comes on a full Stainless steel bracelet with a double-locking divers clasp with a single-push-button release diver’s extension system.



BREITLING Superocean HÉRITAGE II [2018 collection]

Didn’t Breitling only just recently redesign the Superocean Héritage collection last year in celebration of the SO’s 60th Anniversary?

They did but this year they have decided to further extend the SOH family to include a number of new models with 44mm cases including some baller (no, not baller these are very classy) two-tone versions in 18k Red Gold and Stainless steel –

one of which can be had as a 42mm. It can be distinguished from the 44mm version by its white-framed date window.

Breitling have created both three-hands and chronograph models in B01, B20 and Cal. 13 flavors to suit, plus a whole slew of lovely dial options of which there is a sexy silver (looks more Titanium to me) chrono dial with black sub-dials among others.

The Superocean name dates back to 1957, when it was first used for the brand’s earliest professional diver’s model which Breitling say soon became popular among both professional and amateur SCUBA divers – no doubt! ;)

The name has been used for a number of different models over the decades including some of the brand’s more contemporary dive watches but it is the Héritage line with its direct use of vintage design cues that has garnered the most attention.

Like any half decent retro diver, the 2017 / 18 SOH takes an old school style and combines it with the brand’s most cutting-edge technologies such as the watch’s ultra-hard high-tech ceramic bezel inlay. No biggie really, but you wouldn’t be without a ceramic inlay these days.

While Breitling have breathed new life into the SOH’s design, they were careful to retain all those characteristics that had made the historic models so special.

Take for instance the unusual shape of the hands (harpoon for the hours and sword-like for the minutes), along with the slightly cone-shaped hour markers, DNA taken directly from the earliest SO but exaggerated so that they are able to accommodate even more lume.

For 2018, the Superocean Héritage II collection has been extended to include these handsome new 44mm models. . .

The Superocean Héritage II B01 Chronograph 44 which is unquestionably the line’s flagship model. Powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, it has been constructed in two versions, both with robust Stainless-steel cases.

One model features a striking black dial and is presented on a black Aero Classic rubber strap; the other has a bold blue dial and an Ocean Classic Stainless-steel bracelet.

The Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, has already established itself as one of the most reliable mechanical watch movements. It is visible through the watch’s Sapphire exhibition caseback. It boasts an impressive power reserve of more than 70 hours and has these cute panda-like sub-dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock.

There are also three new Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 models, powered by the workhorse that is the Breitling Caliber 13 automatic movement. They have a different sub-dial configuration from the B01’s and are located at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock which along with the day / date window at 3 o’clock, offer perhaps a more youthful and sportier look. Honestly, not a fan of day indictors, though. :(

There are two Stainless-steel versions of the Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44: one has a black dial and an Ocean Classic Stainless-steel bracelet, while the other features a blue dial and a blue Aero Classic rubber strap designed to perfectly match its dial.

The Stainless-steel and 18k Red Gold model with its black dial is particularly fetching. This beautiful chronograph is presented on an Ocean Classic Stainless-steel bracelet.

Next up is the Superocean Héritage II B20 Automatic 44, a sleek and striking new interpretation of the SOH family in a three hand version of the watch powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B20. There are also two subtle Stainless-steel designs: one with a black dial and a black Aero Ocean Classic rubber strap, the other with a blue dial and an Ocean Classic stainless-steel bracelet.

The Stainless-steel and gold Superocean Héritage II B20 Automatic 44 has a black dial and a black Aero Classic Rubber strap which as mentioned above is also available in a 42mm variant. Each member of the Superocean Héritage II B20 family has a date window at 6 o’clock.

The Breitling Manufacture Caliber B20 powering the COSC-certified Superocean Héritage II 44 is a robust automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It is based Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5612 and features exclusive finishing reflecting the collaboration between two brands that are now pooling their expertise in the development and production of selected mechanical movements.

The robust Stainless-steel case with its screw-down crown is water-resistant to 200 meters. Its fluted unidirectional rotational diver’s bezel, with a luminescent dot at 12 o’clock, is fitted with a 120-click cycle for increased accuracy.

So what do you think of the new Superocean Héritage II 44mm models?

The SOH has never looked better imho. The two-tone versions are going to cause much salivation – images of these should only be expanded when properly armed with a fresh box of Kleenex and accompanied by a healthy bank statement.